Death March, Whitecloud Mountains, Central Idaho, undated, by Jeff Filler,
Moscow
Erik Riechers and I launched from Fourth of July Lake trailhead for a week at
high altitude in the Whiteclouds. We followed the trail past Fourth of July Lake
and Patterson Peak, which together are classically beautiful and the subject of
numerous Idaho photographs, then over the pass to Washington Lake. At Washington
we took a hard left and headed over the west ridge of Castle Peak as a shortcut
into the upper Chamberlain Basin. We crossed the ridge without event, but on the
way down the other side Erik lost his footing, fell, and started to bounce his
way down the chute toward me. He called out - I turned around, wanting to help,
but unable, as gravity was carrying to and past me faster than I could position
and perhaps brace myself to try and break or slow his fall. I watched
helplessly, and in wonder, as he bounced on his front, then on his backpack,
then to front, and so on, down the chute toward an eighty or hundred ft cliff.
On his last bounce before going over the edge, his pack jammed in a rock, with
he still strapped to it, saving him from certain …
I climbed over to him, carefully unstrapped him from the pack, and pulled him
up. We assessed his injuries, which were relatively minor, and collected what we
could find of his stuff - broken fishing rod, broken eye glasses, etc. We soberly and
carefully climbed down the rest of the way to the big lake at the upper end of
the Chamberlain basin. At the lake, and without a word, we each set our packs
down and pulled out pocket Bibles, neither of which we knew the other was
carrying, and with only a little conversation, silently acknowledged our
religion.
After more silence I assembled my fishing rod, and cast out into the lake. Erik,
now rod-less, watched on. A nice 10 or 12 inch trout took the lure and fought
about as I reeled it to shore. Then, out of the deep, a much larger fish came
and bit the tail off the one I was reeling in. This, plus the events on the
mountain, made fishing too strange; I pulled in my gear; we set camp, and lay in
our sleeping bags, and eventually went to sleep.
The next day was indeed new and we headed north. We crossed over rugged terrain
into the Quiet and Noisy Lakes area, below Serrate Ridge. We had momentum, so we
kept going, into the Little Boulder Chain, and then further north into the Big
Boulder Chain, camping between Cove and Sapphire Lakes. We hardly knew what to
do - we were deep into the range now - and way ahead of schedule. But then the
weather decomposed. That night our little camp in the last little patch of trees
at timberline above Cove Lake was IN a serious storm. As it approached we stoked
our fire - so that perhaps at least we might find some hot coals after the rain.
Oddly, in the torrential rain that followed, the fire managed to spread, not be
extinguished, so by midnight the fire had followed the pitch-filled logs we had
equipment resting on - and managed to burn up some of our stuff. During the
night Erik awoke and beat down the flames. By morning the rains had stopped; we
assessed the damage, and only minor things had perished in the fire. Our
sleeping bags were soaked, along with everything else.
The weather was indeterminate. If it cleared we could dry out our things and
continue our trek; if it resumed raining, the trip would be miserable at best,
and dangerous at least, with the threat of hypothermia. We set a turnaround time
for 10 am. Our truck was only 5 miles by `air' away, but over several mountain
ridges, the upper thousand feet or so of which were still be hammered by storm.
So we waited patiently by our loaded packs until 10; if it was promising to be
clear, we'd stay; if indeterminate, we'd head out.
Time came and the weather wouldn't promise, so we donned our packs and headed
out. We dropped east to Walker Lake, down to Big Boulder Creek, hit the trail,
and took the trails all around the east side of the range, past Frog Lake, below
the Little Boulder Chain, past Baker Lake, below Castle Lake and Castle Peak,
then into the Chamberlain drainage. We stopped only once, not because we had to,
but because it was right … the rest of the time eating on the trail with food
stuffed in outer pockets. Our packs were 50-lb dry weight - with an undetermined
amount of added weight from the soaking.
As we came around the east end of Castle Peak at dusk we noticed the opportunity
to chop a mile or so off the trail by dropping straight over the edge into the
Washington drainage. It would be critical to hit the trail as it traversed
toward home - to miss it would put us in the bottom of Washington Creek after
dark, with wet bags. As dark went to darker I realized we probably missed the
trail, and before it got too late, stopped, and directed us back upward in
search. We were coming down an avalanche hill, so the trail was annually
obliterated. We found it and pressed on, up to Washington Lake, over the divide
to Fourth of July, and then to the truck. It had become a death march, the last
several miles by trail and one flashlight. We hiked 28 total miles, 5000
vertical feet up, and 6000 down, in 12 hours. And to top it off, we slept in the
back of the truck alongside the road on the way home.
JRF